Spinach Borani (borani ye esfenaj)

The Persian dishes called borani are a genius combination of cooked vegetable and thick drained yogurt. They are generally topped with fried onions, and often with a scattering of lightly toasted walnuts. People rave whenever I serve them, especially this spinach version.

Serves 4 to 6

Ingredients

• About 1½ cups plain full-fat yogurt
• 2 pounds spinach
• About 2 tablespoons sunflower or extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 medium onion, thinly sliced
• 1 teaspoon sea salt, or to taste
• 1 tablespoon water

Preparation

1. Drain the yogurt to thicken it: Line a sieve or colander with cheesecloth or a cotton cloth. Moisten the cloth with water. Set the sieve or colander over a bowl and add the yogurt. Set aside, loosely covered, to drain for about 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, trim the tough stems from the spinach. Wash the spinach thoroughly in several changes of water and drain well. Coarsely chop and set aside.
3. Heat the oil in a wide heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, lower the heat to medium, and fry the onion until translucent and touched with color, about 5 minutes. Transfer the onion to a plate and set aside.
4. Raise the heat under the skillet to medium-high and add the spinach, turning it to expose it to the hot surface. Add about 1⁄2 cup water and cook, pressing and turning the spinach, until it is well wilted and deep green, 4 to 5 minutes.
5. Transfer the spinach to a bowl to cool slightly. Once the spinach is cool enough to handle, squeeze it thoroughly, a handful at a time, to press out excess water. Transfer the spinach to a bowl, add 1⁄2 teaspoon salt, and mix well.
6. Turn the thickened yogurt out into a bowl; you’ll have about 1 cup. Add the remaining 1⁄2 teaspoon salt and the water to loosen the yogurt slightly and stir. (Save the whey for another purpose or discard.)
7. Add the yogurt to the spinach and stir gently to mix them a little, but not into a smooth blend, leaving the mixture with patches of white and dark green. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
8. Strew on the fried onions, sprinkle with saffron water and toasted walnuts if you wish, and serve.