Mendelssohn in Rome

In the 19th century many a composer made a pilgrimage to Rome and was awestruck by the greatness of its ruins. When 22-year-old Felix Mendelssohn made the trip, he saw ruins but little greatness. To his family in Berlin he reported on January 17th, 1831:

“The night before last a theater opened with a new opera by Picini. There was a tremendous crush. The boxes were full of the most elegant people. Picini took his seat at the piano and received an ovation. He had not written an overture. The opera began with a chorus during which a tuned anvil was beaten in time to the music. The Corsair appeared, sang his aria, and was applauded.

“The Corsair up on stage and the maestro down in the pit both bowed. Many other pieces followed and the thing became tedious. The audience agreed, and when Picini’s grand finale rang out, the musicians in the pit rose to their feet and started talking in loud voices and laughing and turned their backs to the stage. The Countess in the box next to mine fainted and had to be carried out. Picini vanished from the piano, and amid a good deal of chaos the curtain came down.

“Next came the great Bluebeard Ballet and then the last act of the opera. Once it began, the audience hissed the entire ballet from start to finish and accompanied the second act of the opera, likewise, with hisses and laughter. At the end they called for the manager but he didn’t show.

“That is a sober account of a first night and theater opening in Rome. If the music had caused a sensation I would’ve been perplexed because it is sad stuff, beneath criticism. But it also perplexes me that they should suddenly turn their backs on Picini, their big favorite, whom they wanted to crown in the Capitol, and instead make fun of his tunes and sing parodies of them. On another occasion they had carried him home on their shoulders.”

Felix Mendelssohn writing home after a memorable opening night at the opera in Rome, January 17th, 1831.