Along County Highway B in eastern Wisconsin, families find solace at Kelley’s Country Creamery to enjoy America’s favorite frozen treat.
Whether it tastes like Sweet Corn, Dinosaur Crunch or Kat’s Meow, people of all ages shop with their eyes to savor handcrafted ice cream in a cup or a cone.
“We’re always looking at things that we enjoy, but we also look out at the market and the trends,” co-owner Karen Kelley told “Morning Edition” on WPR.
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Although Kelley’s family tradition dates back 16 years, new federal rules under the Trump administration mean the Wisconsin ice cream maker and others must use ingredients without synthetic dyes.
In a voluntary effort, the International Dairy Foods Association plans to phase out Red 3, Red 40, Green 3, Blue 1, Blue 2, Yellow 5 and Yellow 6 from 90 percent of the country’s ice cream supply by 2028.
The Department of Health and Human Services Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr. has long criticized the use of food dyes. Companies such as Nestlé, Kraft Heinz and General Mills announced plans earlier this year to shift away from these additives, too.
Kelley called the removal of artificial dyes a good decision for ice cream makers as consumers become more aware of the ingredients in their foods.
“Some moms are more concerned about [dyes] in products, not just ice cream,” she said.
Wisconsin dairy processors impacted
While cheese production dominates the dairy processing industry in Wisconsin, 49 licensed dairy plants are in the state, according to Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin.
This means Wisconsin’s popular ice cream brands — Cedar Crest Ice Cream, Chocolate Shoppe Ice Cream and Sassy Cow Creamery — must transition away from synthetic dyes.
Even Kwik Trip, which sells its ice cream under the brand Nature’s Touch, must follow suit.
In 2022, the state’s dairy processing industry contributed $37.1 billion to industrial revenues and 70,200 jobs, according to a 2024 report by the University of Wisconsin-Madison.
Each summer, the Kelley family business relies on Lamers Dairy in Appleton for cream and milk to blend its ice cream mix. Once it’s shipped back to the creamery, hundreds of flavors can be created.
Kelley said that up until three years ago, the family produced milk on its 200-acre farmstead, next door to the creamery. But the family sold its milking herd to grow its footprint in sustainable agriculture.
While dairy farms have declined by nearly half in the past decade, a 2024 Dairy Producer Survey found that 81 percent of dairy producers, of 1,600 farmers surveyed, plan to continue operations through 2030 — a good sign for ice cream makers.
Why the color of ice cream matters
But the biggest concern for Kelley is whether natural dyes can create bold colors like the popular “Blue Moon” flavor.
“In the ice cream business, consumers buy with their eyes,” she said. “When you use the natural colors, they’re not going to be as vibrant.”
Last month, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration approved the additive gardenia to phase out Red 3, a petroleum-based dye. The blue color is derived from a flowering evergreen and is already making its way into sports drinks and hard candies.
Ice cream served at Kelley’s Country Creamery and other shops often include candy like M&M’s to create color and influence flavor. But the popular candy brand is one of a few major food companies holding out against natural additives. If the company chooses to opt out, ice cream makers might need to reconsider the ingredient.
Kelley said the creamery is already making adjustments to its ice cream. Currently, 67 of the creamery’s 300 flavors are made without artificial colors. She called the timeline to switch out ingredients by 2028 a process.
“You might have to work with several suppliers all across the country,” she said. “We also have to understand that changing to all-natural might be more expensive.”
FDA approves new color additives
As the Kelleys and ice makers across Wisconsin transition to healthier alternatives, more options will likely become available on the federal level.
Prior to the FDA’s approval of gardenia last month, the agency confirmed three other color additives back in May; butterfly pea flower extract for making blue, purple and green; galdieria extract blue for making blue, purple and green; and calcium phosphate for making white.
According to the International Dairy Foods Association, Americans eat more than 4 gallons of ice cream each year. On the question of whether ice cream lovers will eat more or less once synthetic dyes are eliminated, Kelley remains optimistic.
“Some people will get that special treat maybe more often,” she said. “I think there are going to be people that will start eating it again.”
