It's-Been-A-Long-Damn-Day-Wine-From-Your-Glass Pan Sauce is excerpted from SEARING INSPIRATION: FAST, ADAPTABLE ENTREES AND FRESH PAN SAUCES © 2018 by Susan Volland. Reproduced by permission of W.W. Norton & Company. All rights reserved.
It's-Been-A-Long-Damn-Day-Wine-From-Your-Glass Pan Sauce
This recipe was included in my last book, Mastering Sauces. Readers chuckled, then drilled me for more information. "That's how I want to cook!" Essentially, this entire book stems from a basic recipe framework: Sear. Deglaze. Embellish. Once you've cooked your way through some of the recipes, you will know how diverse and adaptable the technique is. And you'll see dinner potential in ingredients you previously overlooked. Whenever you need a refresher, use this framework as a guideline.
I will boldly assume that if you are enjoying a glass of wine with dinner, you have chosen something taste-appropriate to your ingredients. If not, you will need to pour from another bottle. If you're not sure, go ahead and stick with the accepted generalizations: reds with dark meats, whites with lighter meats and seafood; roses are generally best left in the glass. Of course there are always exceptions. The more you learn about food-and-wine pairing, the more pleasure you will have mixing and matching wines in pan sauces. Ales and hard cider also make good pan sauces, but they tend to need more concentration to become as flavorful as wine. Stocks, broths, and some juices can also work.
PREP
Choose a quick-cooking entree like boneless chicken, thin steaks, fish fillets, shrimp, or firm tofu. Pat dry and season generously with salt and pepper. Dredge lightly in flour if the food is wet or soft, like tender fish fillets.
SEAR
Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. When it is hot, swirl in enough oil or clarified butter to just coat the bottom. Arrange the food in the pan so the pieces are evenly spaced. They should each sizzle as they touch the hot pan. Sear until browned on the first side. Flip. Brown on the other side and then continue cooking, flipping as needed, until just done. If the pieces are very thin and quick-cooking, they may actually be cooked through before the second side is thoroughly browned. If the pieces are thick or uneven, reduce the heat after the first flip and consider a secondary technique like steaming or pan-roasting. Lift the cooked food out of the pan onto a clean platter or plates, then remove the pan from the heat if you hve not already done so.
ADD AROMATICS
Discard the cooking oil and analyze the pan residue. Remove any burnt residue or unappealing bits. Let the pan cool slightly if it is very hot, and wipe it clean if necessary. Add fresh oil or butter and saute some aromatics such as minced shallots, onion, garlic, tomatoes, and/or chiles. Do not let them burn.
DEGLAZE
Pour in enough complementary wine, beer, or cider (or juice or good-quality stock) to cover the bottom of the pan. It will instantly bubble and start to evaporate. Use a wooden spoon to soften and dissolve any brown residue. Simmer until the alcohol loses the strong, sharp, "raw" aroma. For a more concentrated, intense sauce, simmer longer. You should end up with about 2 tablespoons of intensely flavored liquid per serving.
EMBELLISH
To enrich a sauce, stir in some cold butter, heavy cream, or good flavorful oil at the end. A teaspoon or two per person is fine. Add additional flavorings or ingredients such as Dijon mustard, chopped fresh herbs, and/or a squeeze of lemon if you like. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper as necessary. Return the seared ingredient(s) to the pan to coat with sauce, or simply pour the sauce over your entree. Serve immediately.
