Hasenpfeffer is a famous German dish of wild hare and juniper berries. It epitomizes the German technique of long sour brining that both flavors and helps tenderize meat. The recipe is simple, but it takes some time to make, so plan ahead. Ideally, the rabbit should marinate for
2 days, but if you are pressed for time, 24 hours will do. The word Hase refers to a wild hare, not a farm-raised rabbit, so if you have a friend who hunts and can supply you with one, this will taste even better. If not, a good farm-raised rabbit will work just fine.
Serves 2 or 3 as a main course
Marinade
2 cups red wine, preferably pinot noir, plus more if needed
1 ½ cups apple cider vinegar
1 cup water
¼ cup gin
1 ½ tablespoons salt
1 tablespoon juniper berries
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
3 bay leaves
2 teaspoons allspice berries
2 garlic cloves
1 small bunch thyme
1 whole rabbit (about 2 ½ pounds), cut into 6 pieces: back and front legs, legs separated, and
rib section, split in half (ask the butcher to do this for you)
Braise
¼ cup chopped bacon
2 cups coarsely chopped onions
1 ½ cups halved button mushrooms
1 cup chopped peeled turnips
1 cup chopped cabbage
1 to 2 cups chicken stock
½ cup sour cream
Salt and freshly ground
black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
Rice or egg noodles, for serving
To make the marinade: In a large saucepan, combine the red wine, vinegar, water, gin, salt, juniper berries, peppercorns, bay leaves, allspice berries, garlic, and thyme, bring to a boil, and boil for 3 minutes. Transfer the marinade to a large nonreactive container that will hold the rabbit snugly and refrigerate until completely cool.
Put the rabbit pieces in the marinade. Make sure the rabbit is completely submerged in the liquid; if necessary, add a little more red wine. Marinate in the refrigerator for 48 hours, turning it a few times. (If you are in a rush, just marinate it overnight.)
When ready to cook, remove the rabbit from the marinade and pat it dry with paper towels. Strain the marinade and reserve the liquid; discard the solids.
To make the braise: In a medium pot, cook the bacon over medium heat until it renders its fat and gets slightly crisped, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a plate.
Add the onions, mushrooms, and turnips to the fat remaining in
the pot and cook for 3 minutes, or until beginning to soften. Add the cabbage and cook for another minute. Add the rabbit, return the bacon to the pot, and cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until the rabbit is lightly browned.
Pour in the reserved marinade and 1 cup of the chicken stock. The rabbit and vegetables should be completely submerged in liquid. If not, add up to another 1 cup chicken stock. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and cook for about 1 hour, checking the rabbit occasionally, until the meat is just falling off the bone.
Transfer the rabbit and vegetables to a serving platter and cover loosely to keep warm. Raise the heat to high and cook the braising liquid until it has reduced by half and thickened slightly.
Measure out 2 cups of the braising liquid and transfer it to a bowl. Whisk in the sour cream. Season with salt and pepper.
Pour the sauce over the rabbit and vegetables. Garnish with the dill. Serve with rice or egg noodles.
Excerpted from Buttermilk Graffiti by Edward Lee (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2018.
