Cooking Our Late Summer Bounty

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• Gardens And Markets Exploding With Delicious Vegetables

  Early in the growing season, it can seem like nothing is ripening. But by late August, most gardens and farmers’ markets are awash in heat-loving vegetables. And it can go from a treat to an avalanche is just a few days. Tomatoes, zucchinis and other squash, eggplant, and cucumbers are just some of the likely suspects.

  Chef Terri Milligan is a culinary instructor and writer, as well as the former owner and Executive Chef of the Inn at Kristofer’s in Sister Bay.

  Chef Terri likes to roast tomatoes in a low temperature oven at home instead of using sundried tomatoes. Not only is it a great way to use up that surplus, you get “a tomato that’s not as dry … that has a little more chew to it,” Milligan says. “I put a little bit of olive oil on it, and you can keep those in your refrigerator and have them ready to go whenever you want them.” One great recipe to use those oven roasted tomatoes in is the Fresh Chevre, Pesto and Oven Dried Tomato Confit Terrine that Chef Terri shares on her web site. Another delicious tomato and cheese pairing is her Fresh Tomato and Montrachet Herb Tart, which also takes advantage of fresh garden herbs like basil, oregano, sage or tarragon.

  Door County Tomato Ragout with Caper and Lemon also takes advantage of the tomato surplus. Chef Terri says this was a favorite standby when she and her husband owned the Inn at Kristofer’s. “When you have a restaurant,” she explains,” you think you have all the time in the world, and then all of sudden it’s serving time.” It’s a dish that she created for the two of them to enjoy as a quick lunch, and it eventually made its way onto the menu. Chef Terri likes to serve it over whole grain pasta, with shaved Wisconsin parmesan to finish the dish.

  Host Judith Siers-Poisson shared that her mother would cut tomatoes in half and broil them lightly to start them cooking. Then they were topped with a combination of breadcrumbs, olive oil, basil, salt, pepper, and grated hard cheese like romano or parmesan. Chef Terri said that she will be preparing that dish, which she called Tomatoes Provencal, for a dinner later this week.

  Eggplants tend to inspire strong feelings in people, whether positive or negative. For the eggplant lovers, late summer is a great time of year. Chef Terri loves that there are so many more varieties of eggplant available, and the long, slender varieties are great to cut in half, brush with olive oil, and put them straight on the grill. “People who don’t think they like eggplant might find that it’s pretty darn good when you put it on the grill like that,” she predicts. And to use up a variety of late summer produce, including eggplant, Chef Terri suggests a ratatouille, which also features tomatoes, zucchini and basil. “When you blend it in, the eggplant really gives it more of a meaty texture, so especially for vegetarians, it’s nice that you get kind of a ‘chew’ out of the entrée.” Ragouts like ratatouille also freeze well, so you can enjoy those summer flavors later in the year.

  It might not be an ingredient that you feel like you have too much of, but cucumbers often get relegated just to salads. And that can get a little boring. Chef Terri enjoys a refreshing Chilled Avocado and Cucumber Soup, especially on a hot and humid day. “The avocado gives it a richness and a creaminess. It has some fresh mint and the trick is a little green curry, and that green curry gives it a little snap, but you have to be careful when you’re using it, you don’t want to go too snappy!” she warns. She garnishes it with a little toasted, raw coconut to bring out the coconut milk in it as well. Besides being delicious, because it is a chilled soup, it can be made and ready a couple of days in advance.

  Of course, summer squash, whether zucchini, yellow squash, or patty pans, are in full swing at this time of year as well. One of Chef Terri’s favorite preparations is zucchini fritters.With a combination of mint, lemon, and parmesan cheese, they have a surprisingly complex flavor. Chef Terri also makes zucchini chips by slicing them thinly, tossing them with olive oil, and roast them single layer in a 375 degree oven. When they start to brown a bit, you can eat them plain, or toss with tomatoes and pasta.

  Food blogger Béatrice Peltre, who was a guest on The Larry Meiller Show in July 2012, and other cooks share some favorite recipes for zucchini with the Guardian newspaper (British vocabulary alert: zucchinis are called courgettes across the pond).

  If you like to watch a chef work her magic but can’t make it to one of Chef Terri classes, check out these demonstration videos that she has produced. You’ll learn how to make Home-Smoked Whitefish Salad, Salmon Wellington, Avocado Pomegranate Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette, and Meringue Swans in no time.